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A
short weekend trip to see my son, Jeremy, in New York City, 9-12 February 2007.
Our goal on Saturday morning was the Guggenheim Museum which
Jeremy had never seen and where I have not been in some thirty years. The
museum was jammed, however (the damned tourists swarm the museums on the
weekends). Since neither of us was particularly committed to seeing the
current exhibition--Spanish art from El Greco to Picasso--we decided to put it
off for another time. Instead, after a walk around the Central Park
reservoir where I discovered the twin towers of the El Dorado (about 300 Central
Park West), we went to the Cooper-Hewitt
Museum.

At the Cooper-Hewitt, we saw the National Design Triennial and
also, really more interesting, an exhibit of intricate and beautiful
made-to-scale
staircases. Apprentice craftsmen had to design and make drawings of
staircases and then execute them (most of them are in various fine woods).

Late afternoon, we walked down to the half-price tickets
outlet and got tickets for a revival of Company directed by John Doyle,
who directed the revival of Sweeney Todd which I saw with Jeremy last
summer. In both productions, the players also serve as the band.
I had my doubts that Company could work as well as it did when it first
appeared in the early 1970s, but the show was surprisingly effective (the
rescoring helped a lot) and very enjoyable. Afterwards, we went to a SoHo
bar where Jeremy met up with Semester at Sea friends; after one drink I walked
home, leaving the young'uns to hang out way into the morning.
After
picking up treats at Moishe's Kosher Bake Shop (115 2nd Avenue at 7th Street) on
Sunday morning, we ate our Almond Horns at a little park near the Cooper Union.
Cooper was a New York
industrialist, social reformer and benefactor, and failed presidential candidate
(and his invention of a gelatin dessert led to the development of Jell-o).
Before his haircut, Jeremy looked disturbingly like Peter Cooper. From
there, we walked over to the American Jewish
Historical Society which had a small exhibit of early 1930s photographs from
the Lower East Side. At the time, there was a plan to clear much of the
area for new development, and so a project was organized to document the Jewish
immigrant community for posterity. The redevelopment plan collapsed
because of the Depression and, now, Jeremy calls the Lower East Side home.
Then Jeremy wanted to show me the MoMA (Museum of Modern Art) Design Store in
SoHo, after which we went for a fake-meat lunch at a vegetarian restaurant, Red
Bamboo, near Washington Square. In the afternoon, we went to see the new
museum, appropriately named the Neue
Galerie, started by Ronald Lauder (Estée's son)
for his collection of late 19th, early 20th century German and Austrian
art. There was an exhibit of interior designs (furniture and textiles) by
Joseph Hoffmann, but, better, I got to see a few works by
Klimt (not the famous
"Kiss" but one of the Adele Bauer-Bloch portraits--golden and beautiful) and two
works by Egon Schiele.
After a much-needed nap, off to
Pianos where Jeremy was working sound for a combo-evening of stand-up (one
good, two bad performers) and sketch comedy (The Whitest Kids U Know) which
culminated (?) in a bit of brief, but insufficiently brief, nudity. We
rushed out to get over (by cab, no less) to Jeremy's haunt,
The Upright Citizens Brigade Theatre,
for an improv show featuring two Saturday Night Live performers (Amy Poehler and
Rachel Dratch), a Comedy Central writer (can't remember if Jeremy said he was
from the Daily Show or the Cobert Report), a Conan O'Brien writer (don't watch
it), and two others, as well as a terrible monologist who is supposed to provide
the thread for the works. Finally, a late-night dinner at a 24-hour
Ukrainian restaurant, Veselka; I had
pierogis.
After a Monday morning knish from
Yonah Schimmel's, off to the
airport for the trip home.
Advice
for tourists: You're more likely to find a newsstand in a New York subway
station than a restroom--
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